Pietro Migliaccio and his wife Susan (above) are the proprietors of the three-year-old Cafe Gabbiano, the motto of which is “To Siesta Key through New York from Ischia with Love.” It’s located in Siesta Key Village’s Davidson Plaza.

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Cafe Gabbiano is Siesta's taste of Italy By: Karen Mamone Refreshed and renewed from a month in his beloved island of Ischia, Cafe Gabbiano's Pietro Migliaccio is back on Siesta with some new ideas - and honors - from his native land.  While visiting the famous seaside village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast, Pietro was guest chef at the renowned Chez Black Ristorante. He also was awarded a plaque of commendation from the Italian Tourism Department for his promotion of Italian food and wine. Pietro and his wife Susan are the proprietors of the three-year-old Cafe Gabbiano, the motto of which is "To Siesta Key through New York from Ischia with Love." It's located in Siesta Key Village's Davidson Plaza.  Migliaccio left the beautiful isle of Ischia in 1969 and relocated to New York, where he worked in several well-known restaurants. He opened Mamma Lucia's, a Brooklyn neighborhood cafe, in 1981, and in that same year the New York Times named it Restaurant of the Year. Later, Mimi Sheridan gave it four stars, and Pavarotti praised it on national television, lauding the best fettucine Alfredo he had ever tasted.  Such is the pedigree of Cafe Gabbiano (which means "seagull" in Italian). Pietro's brother Giorgio now runs Mamma Lucia's, and Pietro and his family - sons Joe and Louis, and wife Susan - have relocated to Sarasota. Pietro, a classically trained chef who once cooked on the legendary Italian Line cruise ships, opened the cafe in October 2003. He has been committed to maintaining the same high standards as Mamma Lucia's, he said. All pasta is cooked al dente, veal is hand cut, and fresh mozzarella is made daily. During his three years on Siesta, praise has come from as far afield as the Chicago Tribune, where a visiting journalist put the cafe on his "don't miss" list for Sarasota. The cafe's popularity has been such that he has already expanded into an adjoining storefront. But moderate prices and a neighborhood cafe atmosphere will always be a part of his philosophy, Pietro said. Ischia - largest of the three islands in the Bay of Naples (famed Capri and Procida are the other two) - is best known for its hot springs and radioactive thermal baths. These are a legacy of its volcanic origins, as is its soil, which is ideal for growing grapes and citrus trees.  Not surprisingly, fish and seafood are a major part of the island cuisine, and rabbit cacciatore is the best-known local dish. All sorts of risottos are also hallmarks of the island. At Gabbiano, Pietro and Chef Augusto Caliero display their artistry in nightly dinner specials. Featured are favorites such as the Roman saltimbocca, osso buco, or salmon Livornese (with capers, olives and white wine).  Dinner might start with calamari, homemade bruschetta, stuffed mushrooms, grilled eggplant or the classic mozzarella caprese (mostly $8.95-$9.95). Even the roasted peppers are made in house, and "cozze," mussels in white wine sauce, is a new favorite with customers. Pasta lovers will find their favorites, including penne arrabiata, linguine with clam sauce, puttanesca, and the spaghetti carbonara that the great tenor loved. Recent additions include tortellini Positano, homemade baby ravioli in a alfredo sauce flavored with ham. These "prima piatti" are mostly $15.95. Veal is a star performer at Gabbiano. Cut from the leg for a range of dishes, it is prepared ala Milanese, piccata, and in the house special "Mamma Lucia" style with Marsala, wild mushrooms and mozzarella. They range from $18.95 to $22.95. Seafood offerings range from a calamari en casserole with a light tomato, wine and garlic sauce ($18.95) to grouper Livornese, sole francese, tilapia di pietro, or shrimp oreganata. All entrees come with pasta, salad or vegetables. Chicken dishes and vegetarian offerings are also available. Pietro makes his own tiramisu and cheesecakes; as well as pasta e fagioli and minestrone and several other soups each week.  Special requests are filled whenever possible. "We will make changes as we go," said Pietro. "I am very open minded."  Nothing pleases him more than when a regular customer sits down, greets him and says, "I'm hungry, make me something." Gabbiano also maintains an extensive wine list, specializing, of course, in Italian wines.